orange

Autumn in La Liviniere
Autumn colour in La Liviniere

It’s here!?!!

I must admit I often feel flat at this time of year, well for the first few weeks anyway – no more bare legs and t-shirts, no more swimming outdoors, cold dashes out of the shower…  But finally I somehow get into the swing of it and embrace the warm fires inside, the hearty meals and walks in the brisk air.  And after so many years of braving the cold INDOORS when I rented in Australia, I am loving and embracing the central heating everywhere.

Autumn in the Minervois

orange plane trees
I must admit I took this shot a while back, but I still love it
Autumn plane trees
Plane trees along the Canal du Midi

Yes, Autumn has arrived but thankfully with all its magical colour.  It’s making me think ORANGE!

kids marvelling at the famous 'Baked Bean'  parked on a village street...the lady owner steps in, la proprietaire de la voiture,  ...Rrrowrrrr
kids marvelling at the famous ‘Baked Bean’ parked on a village street
…the lady owner steps in, la proprietaire de la voiture, …Rrrowrrrr!

I’m loving this colour right now and thought I’d put together a few of my favourite ‘orange’ pictures…  And f you’ve wandered around this blog already, you might have picked up on the fact that I do have a little thing for collages.  I’m pathetic, once I like something, I can’t stop! (my lovely girlfriends had diagnosed me at the age of 14 with O.C.D).

So hulahup, Barbatruc, here’s another one for you.

Orange collage
Or-ange Co-llage

allo allo – pics from the 2012 harvest

It’s Thursday and our turn poker night at our house.  The guys were insepcting the labels for a new wine of Benji’s that’s about to be bottled and then got stuck into drinking some others.

poker tonight
Inspecting Vincent’s labels for a new Benji wine coming soon, ‘Boulevard Napoleon’.  (and a thank you to monsieur p for your hand modelling work)

I was so excited, Benji put a great bottle of white in the freezer and I left them (wringing my hands in anticipation) in the kitchen as they sat down to play.  Half-an-hour later I reminded Benji about his bottle chilling and he held one up and said ‘Oh this one? It’s finished’.  My mouth dropped.  The scoundrels!

Comtes Lafon
Comtes Lafon MEURSAULT-GOUTTE D’OR 2009 Chardonnay

Time to come to the computer and vent some steam.

(I should admit I got to bring a twentieth of a glass of chardonnay with me – so generous of you fellas)

I’d been meaning to put up some long-overdue photos anyway.

So for you,  here’s a round-up of the 2012 grape harvest in our little area, the village of La Liviniere, in the Minervois region.  In our village alone, of approxiamtely 600 people, there are 16 vignerons (winemakers/vineyard owners producing their own brand) and about 150 viticulturalists processing their grapes with the local Cave Co-operative.

vineyards in Calamiac

It’s been a good harvest and people seem pretty happy about what they’ve picked – despite the kaleidoscope of weather.  Essentially, we had good rain, good sun, good wind and the vineyard owners and vignerons are happy to see their babies off the vines and in the tanks.

Gone for the moment the need to check on the weather patterns 24/7 and the worries of the wiles of Nature , it’s now time to work inside the cellars and nurture the juice.

While the viticulteurs take it easier, the vignerons need to keep up a a seven day working week.  It is now that crucial decisions, with their accompanying stress, need to be made regarding the precious juice and its management and development.

However, I can say that the general climate in our house is now pleasantly mild with fewer storms brewing on the front .

But not if the wine isn’t shared around.

calamiac harvest time
calamiac, harvest time
tractor
lunchtime break in the village
man, dog, harvester
morning rain in Calamiac
raining one afternoon…
sun over vines
…sunny the next
morning talk at harvester
morning chat by the harvester

lilas on the terrace

calamiac rainbow

lilas rainbow

the neighbouring vigneron's pickers
the neighbouring vigneron’s pickers
the alternative
…the alternative
lilas watching the harvester
watching the harvester from the house, early morning

harvester at home with clothes line

dry stone wall and vines

early morning calamiac
early morning, calamiac

sun over our vines

clouds and vines

Gratin d’Endives au Jambon

Endives
Witlof, Chicory, Endive… also known as the ‘Pearl of the North’ in France

‘Witlof’, ‘Chicory’, ‘Chicon’, ‘Endive’, ‘Belgian Endive’… I’m never quite sure what to call this vegetable.  Each country seems to have a different name for it.  In Australia for example, we call it ‘witlof’?  Here in France it is called ‘endive’ and would you believe it has been grown commercially since only the 1930’s.

Whatever the name for it, since moving to France I have developed a huge liking for this interesting vegetable from the Chicory family.  Thanks to Benji and his mum, I was introduced to a beautiful new ingredient and a few recipes that are now  family favourites. Even our six-year-old loves eating them.

Endives are so verstile – they make a great salad when served raw with vinaigrette drizzled over it or, the particular family favourite, when braised with white wine and lardons and parsley, over a gentle heat for a few hours (the longer the better, you want them to caramelise!).  You can serve this dish on its own or it makes a great side dish to lamb chops, veal or pork.

During the first few weeks of us living back in Australia in 2004, I decided to prepare the family favourite for our  friends who we were lodging with.  I was so excited to share this newly-loved vegetable of mine.  After quite a search, I finally found them in a fruit and veg shop in North Fitzroy.  I filled the bag, enough for four people and when I went to pay I nearly fell over.  They were so expensive!  I concealed my shock and quietly paid the money, vowing never again to buy this vegie in this suburb again.  I at last appreciated why Claude (my Frenchie – amazing cook – friend who was living in Western Australia with his NZ wife), when he had yearnings for a good old endive dish, would only use three or four of them in a gratin.  Braising them en masse was a complete luxury.  Anyway – big sigh of relief – the dish worked out pretty well that evening, but not to be repeated for quite some time!

Here in France however, they are cheap and we eat them regularly, especially around October.  A few years ago, I had to prepare a lunch at the last minute for some friends of friends travelling through the area.  I added pan-fried chicken thigh fillets and julienned carrots to a pot of left-over braised endives and the result was really delicious.   One of our lunch guests, the owner of a well-known bakery in Melbourne (yeah, not much pressure), was keen to get the recipe.   High five!  I was tres contente.  I’ve been adding the chicken and the carrots for many a meal since.

But much to my husband’s relief (I’m someone that could eat the same dish 4 times in the one week if I like it), I’ve branched out and tried a new recipe  – the traditional ‘Gratin d’Endives au Jambon’ (Endives and Ham Gratin).  Once again, as is usual for all the recipes I prepare, this is pretty simple and easy to make.  It is a particularly good dish for the Autumn-Winter months and with today’s maximum temperature reaching six degrees celsius, I think I should get to it and make some.

Here’s the recipe for you…  (I should tell Claude I’ve finally made it)

Gratin d’Endives au Jambon (serves 6)

Gratin d'Endives
Gratin d’Endives

ingredients:

(note:  my quantities are always on the generous side – I prefer to have left-overs than not enough!)

8-10 endives (depending on size)

8 slices ham

60g butter

60g plain flour

200g Swiss Gruyere, grated (the AOC Gruyere ‘Alpage’ or ‘Reserve’ are incredible! – and even available in Australia)

1 litre full cream milk

salt, pepper

olive oil

method:

Trim stems off endives, pull off any discoloured leaves, then cut in half (I do this to help with cooking them through and browning)

Fry the endives in a pan over a low-medium heat with a little olive oil.  As they begin to brown (or burn!), you can pour in a small amount of white wine to keep the pan moist.  Fry until golden/dark golden and moisture has evaporated

(NB: some like to steam or boil the endives to part cook them but I prefer to fry them as I find there is too much liquid in the baking dish later when serving)

+ Heat oven to 180 degrees Celsius (about 7 or 8 on my gas oven) +

endive 1
Fry the endives until golden

While the endives are cooking, prepare the cheese sauce (I like to grate the cheese before beginning the sauce so that your hands are free to keep stirring – and ready to be added when needed)

endives 2
While the endives are cooking, prepare the cheese sauce

Melt butter in large saucepan

Heat milk in a different saucepan (it helps reduce overall cooking time if the milk is warm)

Stir in flour with a wooden spoon and cook for a few minutes over a gentle heat, stirring continuously.

Once it becomes a golden paste, pour in heated milk gradually, stirring continuously

(NB: How much milk you add depends on how thick or thin you like your sauce – my husband likes it thin and runny but I like it thickish and runny – so you may want to use less or more than the 1 litre.  Just remember it will thicken over the heat eventually!)

add salt, pepper to taste

Once it comes to the boil, add the cheese and stir until melted.

Remove from heat.

Oil a large gratin/ baking dish

Gather your endive halves, wrapping two halves inside each slice of ham (as though it’s a whole endive)

Place them in the baking dish and pour cheese sauce over the top – add a little extra grated Gruyere if desired

endives 3
Place the wrapped endives in an oiled gratin/baking dish.
(there’s 10 and not 8 in this one)
endive 4
Pour the cheese sauce over the endives and sprinkle with grated Gruyere

Bake for about 30 minutes or until golden

et Voila!

endive 6
Ready to serve

some sights #6 – the Pumpkin Festival

At the Pumpkin Festival last Sunday.

pumpkin festival rieux
gorgeous gold heels
10th annual pumpkin festival
a “Chaud Show!”(quoted from “L’Independant”)

So where are the pumpkins at Rieux’s 10th annual “Fete de la Citrouille”?

My battery went on the blink before I got to that (believe me, they were big)

…we’d been distracted by the rocking drum beats and dancing ladies of “Bresil en Catalogne”.

Mon dieu!

church in Capestang

We were clearing the lunch table when Benji looked up at the kitchen clock and said “I have to be at the wine cellar by 3 for the blessing”.

What?  A blessing?  By who?, what for?…

My questions came fast. The new wine cellar is now fully operational and receiving grapes with its first harvest.  It’s an amazingly interesting site (hemp lime bricks, egg-shaped tanks, energy produced = energy consumed), worthy of much discussion – but a blessing?

This must be my Jesus week.

Do you ever get this, weeks where a theme comes out of nowhere? You might think of someone, something  just once – and then the whole week you are bombarded with reminders of it, like some sort of grand message?  The theme manages to plant itself into conversations and activities throughout the day, reminders of itself everywhere – and it sticks.  It doesn’t even have to come from you, which is the freakiness of it.

all things bright...
Jesus in the house! – a walk out the back after school
Rieux Minervois
the route home from the supermarket
coeur in the village
coming into the village
cross in Calamiac
at the back of our property

When I was little my auntie used to take me to Sunday church in Adelaide.  I enjoyed the ‘costumes’ and the sound of all the voices singing together in the large, impressive Cathedral but other than that, I was bored with the speeches I had no hope of understanding and Auntie Paul would hand me little picture books about Jesus to keep me occupied.  I would have given anything to be able to have the small disc of ‘bread’ on my tongue and drink the wine – but all I got was a small pat on the head so no, not very exciting.  The only things that excited me were seeing ‘Jesus of Nazareth’ repeated on tele each Christmas (Robert Powell was so hot!) or seeing Julie Andrews as a nun and my consequent decision to become one.   But this was short-lived.

Robert Powell as Jesus of Nazareth
He rocked my world… Robert Powell in ‘Jesus of Nazareth’ 1977

So this Jesus week, all these years later, did seem to spring from nowhere.

OK,  I am living in a rural area where many of the locals remain strongly connected to Catholicism (one of the primary religions in France) – of course I’ll see religious symbols, they’re on almost every corner!  And maybe I’m reading too much into things, simply trying to reassure myself with these ‘messages’.  But it does make me stop for a bit and think.

VIE
in Lezignan

Gee I’m babbling now and sounding bonkers.  But when Benji came out with the whole blessing thing, it sounds strange but it made sense for me.   A couple of days before we’d had a shock with our daughter in an accident.  Lilas was ok, but it really threw me and I’d been murmuring thank-you’s ever since.  Attending a blessing sounded completely logical.

“Can I come?” I asked Benji.

Frere Francois
Frere Francois arriving at the cellar
Frere Francois before the Visigoth building
blessing the small Visigoth building at the property

Frere Francois in the barrel and ageing cellar

All the staff were present but no one said much.  We followed Frere Francois outside and then through the cellar as he gave his blessings and threw the holy water .  It was a strange moment and I didn’t understand everything that was said, but was I happy to take it all in – his gentle manner and the ambience he created, of kindness and tranquility.

It was over before I knew it and I was even sad to see him leave.

Frere Francois departing

A couple of days later I took some friends, visiting from Australia, to a vide-grenier (flea market) after Sunday lunch.  Walking back to the car we saw the door was open to the small village church.  Doors of village churches are normally always locked so we made the most of it and had a look.

Eglise Saint Paul Serge, Mailhac
Inside Eglise Saint Paul Serge, in Mailhac

For such an unassuming exterior the inside was a lovely surprise – very colourful and much bigger than I’d expected.  We had a wander and then Michelle pointed out something on the pin-up board:

quizz
the Eglise Saint-Paul-Serge QUIZZ

“It looks like a quiz for children maybe?”

Looked like it to me.  Here are some of the questions – they’ve got to be shared:

Q 11.  The Mother of Jesus was called:  A) Marie?  B) Nathalie?  C) Sylvie?

Q 12.  Jesus is:  A) A great Frenchman?  B) The Son of God made man?  C) An ordinary Italian?

Q 13.  Jesus died:  A) Crucified in Jerusalem at the age 0f 33?  B) In an accident in Rome at the age of 21?  C) In his bed in London at the age of 70?

Q 14.  Why was Jesus crucified:  A) Because he did nothing?  B) Because he did bad things?  C) Because, as Son of God, he did good around him?

QUIZZ

The following Wednesday (nearly all French children have it off from school) I had to take Lilas to collect her new French passport in a town some distance from our place, in Capestang.  As is quite common around here, the church physically dominates the town.

Capestang and its chucrh in the background
the church towering over the town of Capestang – ‘Collegiale Saint-Etienne de Capestang’

Capestang

Capestang
This church would have been much bigger in scale, but the project was left unfinished due to the Great Plague and lack of funds

It was late in the afternoon and I wanted to get back home, but we had to pass the church to get back to the car.  Lilas saw it and was very keen to visit it.  She insisted we see if it was open.  It was – another one open!?  And once inside, I was so happy we’d taken the time.

Capestang

Capestang

It was beautiful and we had it all to ourselves.  Lilas loved every minute of it and I was happy to have her around.

Capestang