The Frenchman

This smile.  I know I’ve shared this image before, but I still love this man. The twinkle in the eye, the ruddy cheeks. The man had been sitting out the front of his home, too lovely to ignore.  I normally take sneaky shots of people, I’m ashamed to say, but this time it was different, too obvious and plus he’d already seen me and was smiling.  I approached his group and asked if I could take their photo.  The women laughed, rolling their eyes at each other.  He was delighted.  I’d been so nervous asking, but his grin reassured me.  

My friends know I have a thing for older souls – our elders who have lived long and seen things.  Seen what we haven’t seen, had experiences we haven’t yet had.  They are people rich with memories yet they’re often not heard and have stories we don’t hear.  When I think about it, these older souls are not unlike another my obsession, old tractors: for me there’s a beauty in well-worn legs or wheels travelling at their slow and steady pace, their minds and motors brimming from countless miles covered on this earth.  Like this man.

The day I saw him, I’d been walking around a small French town I didn’t know, Burlats, some hours’ drive from us.  We’d just arrived, a few parents accompanying teachers and their 30 young élèves, aged 4-10 years, for my daughter’s school music trip. The kids were excited and running in all directions, happy to have arrived (ie VERY happy – please picture 30 hyper, chatty children in a large bus slowly winding its way through the Montagnes Noires – a long and wonky journey resulting in 28 small unwell stomachs emptying in unison, forcing an overwhelmed driver of a stinking bus to pull over.  The trip itself had been something to remember, a total barforama).


I’d been marvelling at the ancient monuments and the beauty of its rural setting, perched high in hills above the Agout river…


Wandering behind some kids, I spied a group of locals set up on plastic chairs in the full afternoon light.  The beret caught my attention, and I made a beeline in their direction.  I said bonjour, explained we were visiting on a school trip and, for once, asked permission to take their photo.

For a while, this man’s photo hung on the walls of our village cafe, Grand Café Occitan.  The Frenchman with no name. I’d printed it with a few others and they were for sale.  The man watched over diners but no-one took him home.  I was quite happy actually – because he’s been leaning on a wall in our house ever since, and each time I see him I smile.  It might be his cheeky smile reminds me of my dad?  My dad’s far from me, living in Australia and I miss him. What I would give to get him out here with a bunch of his mates and see them sitting on the public bench alongside the older folk of our village – chatting, watching the world go by.  Dad and his mates might even introduce a bottle or two of red for the occasion – unheard of in these parts. 

But I’m rambling.  Why am I talking about older folk and this particular photo?   Because I have something new to add to this story, my Frenchman with no name now has a name.  

We were having dinner, Benji and me with friends of ours on holiday at the Cafe Occitan.  There’s not many of us left – our table of 4 and a large, festive table of people from out of town celebrating a birthday.  I head to the loo as we’re about to go, and as I’m walking back to our table, I hear the music has upped a few notches and see the birthday party has revved up with all the guests on their feet and dancing.  A man from the group motions over to me and I plan a polite merci, non merci for an offer to dance.  A second later he’s standing before me trying to explain over the noise that someone in his group wants to meet me, would this be ok. He brings over a lady whose face is beaming who tells me she wanted to meet the person whose photos had hung on the walls of this cafe, and had found out it was me.  It’s been years since the photos came down, but she had remembered one in particular, the one of her father, sitting in his village in front of his home, with a beret on his head. 

This smiling woman wanted to tell me how happy it had made her, the surprise all those years ago, of seeing her father on the wall in a cafe so far from their home. She told me her father’s name was André.  We hugged and I melted.  I couldn’t thank this woman enough for introducing herself and sharing this.  I explained which year I’d taken his photo and why I had been in their town, and we laughed as I described my meeting with her father and his warm, jovial manner with me.  That sounds like him she said, and told me that he had passed one year after the photo was taken.  We hugged again and exchanged our numbers so I could send her all the photos I had of André. 

Greetings…

Paris postcard found at a 'vide-grenier' - 'Place de la Republique'
old Paris postcard found at a ‘vide-grenier’ – ‘Place de la Republique’

Up early this morning and dashed out to a village ‘vide-grenier’…  it’s a type of garage sale, but instead of just one household selling their wares on the street, it’s a whole village full!   If you’ve never been to one, they are just brilliant and full of potential treasure – and trash (as many would say!).

I’ve got to say I’m a little hooked and it’s one of those rare mornings where I’m ready to spring out of bed at 6am.  There’s even get a slight adrenaline rush as I jostle for a car park close to the sectioned-off streets and head towards the first stand displaying its wares.  I’m on a mission –  my purse is heavy with coins and my chest is literally bursting with excitement.  Sicko, you might say.  But really!  Vide-greniers (this translates as ’empty the attic’) offer all sorts of wonderful objects. And hey it’s in France, so for me that makes it totally exotic (mind you, being far from home, kangaroos and gums are also completely exotic for me now).  It’s not everyday you can buy the old scribbled-in picture books from the elderly monsieur’s childhood collection, or the 60s flowery frock from Madame’s hand-me -downs.  I’ve even picked up a whopping Le Creuset cast iron pot  for 8 Euros (now this find was in the half-dark it was so early and I had a torch!).   Mmmn, a post on vide grenier treasures will follow!

These ‘village garage sales’ are held on weekends (Sunday is the big day for our region)and start from around 8am, with people beginning to pack up around 4pm.  But if you want to find the ‘better’ stuff and real bargains, it’s best to head out as early as 7am (ie 8 Euro cookpot) – the time where you’ll rub shoulders with the ‘professionals’ already out for the hunt.

Here’s a few pics of some local vide greniers to whet the appetite for some…

vg 8
aaargh!!! this is a sight that sends me CRAZY

vg 2

vg 1

vg 10-11

vg 9

vide grenier 7

vg 7
I just loved this lady’s pricing for her old linen

vg 12
Lilas’ already an old hand at these things

vg 5
…that’s her with the Viewfinder

Today the weather has been pretty dire, so I headed out early and came home early (it has been raining much of this weekend – not something we’re needing when it is already difficult to access the vineyards by tractor, we’re hoping the forecast for heat for this week dries everything up).

I came home with a few postcards amongst my finds.

Goutez nos olives

This first one, above, was actually written (from the 60s?) on today’s date!?!  Woh!

Reading over the cards from this mornng over a coffee, I noticed the date marked was today's
Reading over the cards from this mornng over a coffee, I noticed the date marked was today’s

But have a look at these beauties…

'Babyface'
‘Babyface’

'Rond Point'
‘Rond Point’ (the guy on the far right side is to blame for this purchase)

...not much to be said
…not much to be said

guitar chick
You go girl, stroke those strings…

st eloi
this guy’s a fave

frenchie loveeers
check those fellas (mounds of muscle)

…and on the above theme,

...love an old recipe postcard
…love an old recipe postcard

But I do love a pretty card too.

sailboat postcard

another old Paris postcard:  'Marche aux Fleurs de la Cite'
another old Paris postcard: ‘Marche aux Fleurs de la Cite’

Oz

So how idid it feel to be home?  Wonderful.

One minute you’re here, in a flash you’re there and suddenly and wonderfully, it feels like you’ve never left.  The brown grass is the same, the clean grid of houses is the same, Mum and Dad are at the airport to pick us up and cruise us home, their dog is at the door, all the smells are the same, the beautiful trees are the same, the coffee is a lot better than you know where…  A lot of things have never changed and I love it.

But there is a weird part to coming back and this part is where you fit in with people.  Being away for most of the year means you have to step back and accept the distance from these loved people on an everyday level.  Sure, I make calls home and speak to my parents often, but it isn’t the same and I’ve had to sort of ‘train’ myself to endure the distance by allowing myself to let go.  It’s too hard for me to keep it up 100% in two places at once.  My heart is in both, but I take a step back and act less wherever I am not. Then suddenly, I come back and have to get a handle on my excitement – near-hysteria –  over seeing all these adored people in person again.  This can be really strange.  I act either overwhelmed and vague or like a babbling idiot, wanting to toast every moment with everyone with gallons of bubbles.  Not good for the head.

Look, sorry for the blah it’s hard to explain.  I’ll try and explain it better later.

For now I want to celebrate having new eyes on home.  Images and places I always took for granted seem to be so exotic now!  Australia can be so tres chic – and oh so wonderfully tres kitsch.  I always knew this I guess about home, but now I love it even more.

flying in to Adelaide
flying in to Adelaide

one of many signs around Aldinga beach - a favourite beach of ours
around Aldinga beach – a favourite place

Yellow Flowering Gum
Yellow Flowering Gum

accommodation on a friend's farm, New Year's Eve
accommodation on a friend’s farm, New Year’s Eve

New Year's day 2013, beach car park
New Year’s day 2013

yeah, yeah, a kangaroon crossing.  yawn yawn!
yeah, yeah, a kangaroon crossing. yawn yawn!

class
class

sheep shed
sheep shed

bbq'd sausages and sauce on bread (Lilas consumes a 1000 each Christmas)
bbq’d sausages and sauce on bread (Lilas consumes a couple of hundred each Christmas)

...and this is what Mum consumes
…and Mum consumes this

...and this
…and this (next time K and H!!)

spooky
spooky

oh what the hell, I love this so here it is again...
oh what the hell, I love this so here it is again

road to nowhere
road to nowhere

heading to some of my favourite beaches in South Australia
heading to some of my favourite places in South Australia

Aldinga Beach
Aldinga Beach

could do with this back in France
could do with this in France

The Capri - a much-loved movie theatre around the corner from where I used to live.  'The Mighty Wurlitzer' is played live, each Friday and Saturday night
The Capri – a much-loved movie theatre around the corner from where I used to live. Each Friday and Saturday night, ‘The Mighty Wurlitzer’ makes its appearance.  As the ads finish, an oompah loompah of noise begins and there, rising up through the floor before the screen, emerges the mighty organ with its pianist banging waywardly on the keys with his legs flying across the foot pedals, providing the pre-movie entertainment.

interior at the Capri
interior at the Capri

still cruisin’ in Adelaide

cruising in Adelaide
cruising in Adelaide

A big Hip hip to this New Year, 2013!  May it be a good one for all and a happy and healthy one.

Just thought I’d say I haven’t forgotten about the blog, just busy cruising the streets in S.A. (South Australia) and lapping up as much quality time as possible, before the annually dreaded departure.  Gotta make the most of it!

But somehow there’s those petite ‘mon Dieu’ surprises that always bring France back to mind…

les geants...
les geants… as seen at the Adelaide Central Market

Back soon…

la vie en rose

papier cul
dunny paper, loo paper, bog roll, papier toilette, PQ… in PINK

Dunny paperloo paper, bog roll,toilet paper, toilet tissue, papier toilette, PQ (this one is good – it’s French and so tres elegant – it’s pronounced ‘pai-cue’, short for papier cul,’arse paper’)…  So many glorious ways to label a roll of perforated paper that wipes your bits.  But whatever the name, there is a fashion here in France that never goes out of fashion – your PQ in pretty old pink.

Forget baguettes, 2CVs, the Eiffel Tower… Yes, when I think of a recurring image over here, I think of pink PQ.  In almost every home you visit, you help yourself to, pink.  In any cafe, bar or restaurant toilet, pink.  Have a stroll down any supermarket toilet tissue aisle and you goggle over mountains of… pink.  Good luck if you’re searching for non-bleached, non-patterned or basic white.  They’ll be the few small piles hidden amidst the enormous volumes of joli rose – or once in a while spotted in a public loo!

mountains of lush pink dunny paper
mountains of lush, pink dunny paper

Why?  In fifteen years of frequent pondering (nearly always whilst sitting on someone else’s loo, reaching over for their dainty pink squares) – and asking most French people I know – I still don’t have an answer for it.  I’m by no means the first person to be asking either – I have friends!  Loads of them.  There are millions of internet search engine results concerning this very discussion in both French and English.  Some bloody funny theories too.  But still no answers!

It doesn’t explain the pink, but here’s a bit of trivia – correct me if I’m wrong! – about the French and their PQ, found in my search for THE answer:  it is said toilet paper was introduced in this country at the beginning of the 20th Century, but as it was long considered a luxury item, it was only from the 1960s its use became widespread.

And in shades of pink at that.

Chic.