Here little piggy

following in the footsteps
on the trail

When I’m on a roll and doing the right thing by my back (my G.P. freaked when I said I was discovering the merits of beer and wine over prescription pills to ease chronic pain), I get out and walk.

Up and down and around the numerous ‘chemins‘(paths) of our local village after dropping Lilas off at school – or if I’m at home, I lock the door behind me and head out for a wander around ye olde hamlet.  There’s nothing better for head-clearing than getting out and enjoying the sights and smells and sounds from the viewpoint of your feet (I haven’t yet embraced the bike-thing, despite obvious inspiration from the many folk here in Frogsville).

And now more than ever – with the hunting season is officially over, I can walk panic-free.

It sounds crazy but believe me, there’s this dodgy period of the year, from September to the end of February, when delightful shots ring in the air and I freeze and cower behind some vines.  The hunters are out.  Crouching like a ninny, you wonder if your bulk in a huge brown puffa jacket ressembles more wild sanglier (boar) than human.  Especially when you’re not much taller than a wild boar – and on all fours (ooh la la, I won’t start).  Here little piggy.

shells
Lilas likes collecting up the rubbish they leave behind. On you girl!

I’m not joking, accidents happen all over France each year during hunting season.  You can find any number of stats on the net, one of which claims 57 hunting-related deaths in the 2012/2013 season (up from 42 in the 2011/2012 year).  But the stats, depending who is reporting them, vary: the Office National de la Chasse et de la Faune Sauvage cites for 2011/2012, 131 hunting-related accidents of which only 18 were mortal, for eg.  And don’t forget the 9% concerning ‘non-hunters’…

hunting plaque

It’s a topic charged with anger on both sides of the fence.  I wonder which side this author is hanging on…

Oohla, Bernard has a petit hunting zizi surprise in his pocket
Ooh laa, Bernard’s petit hunting zizi surprise has popped out of its pocket – image courtesy of La Buvette des Alpages
…(AND NO, Bill! – that is not me that circled the goods)

Yes I’m confused, and wary of the propaganda – but when you’re out there enjoying the cacophany of shots whilst stepping over colourful empty shell cases, I wonder what my odds are.  I should maybe don a red beanie and have a plastic red rose held high, a la the travel guides shepherding their groups around the grand squares of Europe.

a tranquil walking path
a tranquil walking path, minus the hunting crowd

On the less extreme end, some groups simply argue for a ban on Sundays (most accidents occur on weekends)…  This leads me to wonder why Wednesday (with Saturday and Sunday) is also nominated as an’open’ hunting day of the week  – when it is, all-over France, the mid-week day-off for children from school?  Can’t say I’m itching to take Lilas out for a walk when you can see the camouflage khakis and gun cocked on a guy strolling not that far from the kitchen door.

But hey, on the whole I have no problems with hunting if regulations are respected.  It’s incredibly popular here in the Minervois and you see a big proportion of the villagers getting involved.  It’s almost like a religion.  And these guys are outside, enjoying the elements (and the odd bottle of red) and providing some of us meat-eaters with food on the table.  Probably better than frozen nuggets, pot and a few hours of Playstation in a dark living room .

dawgs in the back
dawgs in the back…  (I’d been wondering where I’d put this pic)

So onto those walks.  Like I said,  the season has offically ‘closed’ and the hunters are at rest for the next few months at least.  The piggies et al can relax – and me too.

hamlet 8

hamlet 6

hamlet 3

4L hamlet

calam5

hamlet 2

black pusscalam13

hameau

mousse

calam1

hamlet9

hamlet 10

some sights #7 – pics from the South!

Hey, hey it’s time for some more sights from around our ‘hood!

I'm always passing this old 'cave co-operative'  - the date on the facade always reminds me of some special people back home, and now there's always this lovely old Renault '4L'
I’m always passing this old ‘cave co-operative’, ‘Costos Roussos‘ – the date on the facade always reminds me of some special people back home(!), and now there’s always this lovely old Renault ‘4L’
This was a first for me...  the ladies in the market vans had old quilts and blankets protecting their produce on a recent market morning.  It was below freezing and bloody cold!
This was a first for me… the ladies in the market vans had old quilts and blankets protecting their produce on a recent market morning. It was below freezing and bloody cold
... and on this moring it was -4 degrees
… and on this morning it was -4 degrees
It's starting to snow, approaching Chateau Violet - a beautiful old wine property near us
It’s starting to snow, approaching Chateau Violet – a beautiful old wine property near us
Saturday morning at the supermarche... preparing delicious 'Aligot'  - yes, a delightfully light, refreshing dish, composed of cheese, cream, potatoes, cheese, garlic, butter and then some more cheese
Saturday morning at the supermarche… preparing delicious ‘Aligot‘ – yes, a delightfully light, refreshing dish, composed of cheese, cream, potatoes, cheese, garlic, butter and then some more cheese.  Come on, it IS light – really!
Wine of the Month in our house- 'Boulevard Napoleon' with local smallgoods (where are you Dad?!)
Wine of the Month in our house:
the recently bottled ‘Boulevard Napoleon‘ with local smallgoods (where are you Dad?!)
the local hospital for the old metalheads
the local hospital for the old metalheads
Sunday night and pooch is hangin' at the pizza van
Sunday night and pooch is hangin’ at the pizza van
hot drinks at the cafe after a playing in the park...but check out the tele, the kids are getting clued up on winemaking
Hot drinks at the cafe after playing in the park
…but check out the tele! – the kids are getting clued-up on winemaking
downtown Narbonne
Downtown Narbonne
Carcassonne market
Carcassonne market
butcher collage 2a
Meat, anyone? Delicacies at the Carcassonne market… lungs, heart, tripe. Note: bottom right in the tripe corner, the butcher has his Rose ready and chilling
...and another glass of Rose.  ONe of the many perks of living around here is the access to delicious, cheap wines served from tap straight out of the wall of our cave co-ops - simply BYO your own bottle
…and another glass of Rose.
One of the many perks of living around here is the access to delicious, cheap wines served from tap straight out of the wall of our cave co-ops – simply BYO your own bottle…
I love this - it's Pierre the baker's price list at the Olonzac market
I love this – it’s Pierre the baker’s price list at the Olonzac market
check out the airbrush work on the hot rod... a Renault 4L van
Check out the airbrush work on the hot rod
… a Renault 4L van
our local school celebrates 'Carnaval' each year, where everybody accompanies the school kids on floats in a tour of the village
Our school celebrates ‘Carnaval‘ each year, where everybody accompanies the school kids on floats in a tour of the village
A few things from last weekend's 'Vide-Grenier' (village garage sale):  some keyrings and an old "Science et Vie' magazine from 1944.Ashamed to say I get obssessed with many things, advertising keyrings from the 60s is one of them!  And I've just discovered there is even a name for it - 'Copoclephliie' (!!)
A few things from last weekend’s ‘vide-grenier’ (village garage sale): some keyrings and an old “Science et Vie’ magazine from 1944.
Ashamed to say I get obssessed with many things, advertising keyrings from the 60s for eg! And hang on, I’ve even discovered there’s a name for it – ‘Copoclephliie‘ (!!)
my favourite view coming out of Olonzac
my favourite view coming out of Olonzac
...and a favourite close to home, this wall in our hamlet
…and a favourite close to home, this wall in our hamlet
favourites, favourites, I think I have a thing about apples?
Favourites, favourites… now I promise this one wasn’t planned!  I think I have a thing about apples? (you started it Mum!)
on the road, yesterday
on the road, yesterday
Short, back and sides in lovely Toulouse
Short, back and sides in lovely Toulouse
the old 'manege' (carousel), downtown Toulouse
the old ‘manege’ (carousel), Toulouse

Phew, I hope you got through that!

xo

Roti de Porc au Lait (Roast Milk Pork)

delicious 'Porc au Lait'
delicious ‘Porc au Lait’

I was on the phone to Mum and Dad last week and mentioned that I’d just cooked up some Milk Pork – ‘Porc au Lait’ – for the next day’s dinner.  It’s funny, these conversations about food are always totally out of whack with our time zones.  It was 11pm my time and 8.30am the following morning, their time.  Normally it’s me cleaning up the breakfast dishes as Dad explains with excitement what he’s got on the stove for dinner.

I’ve never served them Porc au Lait but I know they’d love it.  It ticks all our family’s favourite food boxes:  MEAT, lots of sauce, herbs, garlic and the required ‘three veg’ – and it is easy to prepare.  It’s one of those old-fashioned French dishes that is simply delicious comfort food.  My husband and mother-in-law showed me how to cook this years ago and I can’t count how many times I’ve prepared it since.  We had the poker men for dinner + a few UK visitors and it went down a treat with the new ‘Boulevard Napoleon‘ wines – white and red.

the empties:  the Boulevard Napoleon Grenache Gris white and a few reds...
the empties: the Boulevard Napoleon Grenache Gris white and a few reds…
had to show you these beautifully coloured carrots - they actually gave the milk sauce an almost mauve tint by the end
had to show you these beautifully coloured carrots – they actually gave the milk sauce an almost mauve tint by the end
After the meat has been cooking for awhile in the milk, drop the vegies and parsley in
After the meat has been cooking for awhile in the milk, drop the vegies and parsley in
amples of milk sauce...
amples of milk sauce…
...to serve with this tender juicy meat.  The butcher told me the pork roll was 'parsleyed' ('persille') - I thought he meant stuffed with parsley, but he laughed and corrected me - no, it is the lines of fat running through the piece , 'marbled' as we might say.  Even the Vigneron hadn't heard of this!
…to serve with this incredibly juicy meat. The butcher told me the pork roll was ‘parsleyed’ (‘persille’) – I thought he meant stuffed with parsley, but he laughed and corrected me – it actually refers the lines of fat running through the piece , ‘marbled’ as we might say. Even the Vigneron hadn’t heard of this term, so I was proud to bestow some francais on him.

 

 

Roti de Porc au Lait

serves 6-8

ingredients:

1.5kg roll of roasting pork – preferably of shoulder (fillet is drier and less fat, don’t want that)

1 litre full cream milk

2 large onions, sliced

6 carrots, cut into in large chunks

8 potatoes, as above

8 small turnips, as above

4-5 cloves of garlic

2 sprigs fresh thyme

bunch fresh sage (about 10-12 leaves)

2 sprigs rosemary

oil, butter

salt, pepper

method:

Fry up the onions in heavy cast iron pot with a big chunk of butter (30-40g) and a little olive oil, until golden.

Add the roll of pork and brown on each side over medium -high heat.

When the meat is almost all browned, add the garlic and salt, pepper to taste.  I find garlic burns very easily, so I add it near the end of the browning.

Pour over the milk (meat should be 3/4 covered, if not add more ) and add the herbs.

Cover with lid and let simmer for an hour.

Add the carrots and turnips and keep simmering for another hour.

Add potatoes and keep simmering until they are tender.

Serve with lashings of dijon mustard on the side and a big white or red wine!

N.B.  If this is prepared the night before eating, I don’t add any of the vegetables until the next day.

And.  I cook this for a few hours, the longer the better.  I like it when the meat falls apart.  A lot of recipes cook it for less though, and you keep the form of the pork roll and then slice it.  As the French would say, ‘as you want’…

allo allo – pics from the 2012 harvest

It’s Thursday and our turn poker night at our house.  The guys were insepcting the labels for a new wine of Benji’s that’s about to be bottled and then got stuck into drinking some others.

poker tonight
Inspecting Vincent’s labels for a new Benji wine coming soon, ‘Boulevard Napoleon’.  (and a thank you to monsieur p for your hand modelling work)

I was so excited, Benji put a great bottle of white in the freezer and I left them (wringing my hands in anticipation) in the kitchen as they sat down to play.  Half-an-hour later I reminded Benji about his bottle chilling and he held one up and said ‘Oh this one? It’s finished’.  My mouth dropped.  The scoundrels!

Comtes Lafon
Comtes Lafon MEURSAULT-GOUTTE D’OR 2009 Chardonnay

Time to come to the computer and vent some steam.

(I should admit I got to bring a twentieth of a glass of chardonnay with me – so generous of you fellas)

I’d been meaning to put up some long-overdue photos anyway.

So for you,  here’s a round-up of the 2012 grape harvest in our little area, the village of La Liviniere, in the Minervois region.  In our village alone, of approxiamtely 600 people, there are 16 vignerons (winemakers/vineyard owners producing their own brand) and about 150 viticulturalists processing their grapes with the local Cave Co-operative.

vineyards in Calamiac

It’s been a good harvest and people seem pretty happy about what they’ve picked – despite the kaleidoscope of weather.  Essentially, we had good rain, good sun, good wind and the vineyard owners and vignerons are happy to see their babies off the vines and in the tanks.

Gone for the moment the need to check on the weather patterns 24/7 and the worries of the wiles of Nature , it’s now time to work inside the cellars and nurture the juice.

While the viticulteurs take it easier, the vignerons need to keep up a a seven day working week.  It is now that crucial decisions, with their accompanying stress, need to be made regarding the precious juice and its management and development.

However, I can say that the general climate in our house is now pleasantly mild with fewer storms brewing on the front .

But not if the wine isn’t shared around.

calamiac harvest time
calamiac, harvest time
tractor
lunchtime break in the village
man, dog, harvester
morning rain in Calamiac
raining one afternoon…
sun over vines
…sunny the next
morning talk at harvester
morning chat by the harvester

lilas on the terrace

calamiac rainbow

lilas rainbow

the neighbouring vigneron's pickers
the neighbouring vigneron’s pickers
the alternative
…the alternative
lilas watching the harvester
watching the harvester from the house, early morning

harvester at home with clothes line

dry stone wall and vines

early morning calamiac
early morning, calamiac

sun over our vines

clouds and vines

Mon dieu!

church in Capestang

We were clearing the lunch table when Benji looked up at the kitchen clock and said “I have to be at the wine cellar by 3 for the blessing”.

What?  A blessing?  By who?, what for?…

My questions came fast. The new wine cellar is now fully operational and receiving grapes with its first harvest.  It’s an amazingly interesting site (hemp lime bricks, egg-shaped tanks, energy produced = energy consumed), worthy of much discussion – but a blessing?

This must be my Jesus week.

Do you ever get this, weeks where a theme comes out of nowhere? You might think of someone, something  just once – and then the whole week you are bombarded with reminders of it, like some sort of grand message?  The theme manages to plant itself into conversations and activities throughout the day, reminders of itself everywhere – and it sticks.  It doesn’t even have to come from you, which is the freakiness of it.

all things bright...
Jesus in the house! – a walk out the back after school
Rieux Minervois
the route home from the supermarket
coeur in the village
coming into the village
cross in Calamiac
at the back of our property

When I was little my auntie used to take me to Sunday church in Adelaide.  I enjoyed the ‘costumes’ and the sound of all the voices singing together in the large, impressive Cathedral but other than that, I was bored with the speeches I had no hope of understanding and Auntie Paul would hand me little picture books about Jesus to keep me occupied.  I would have given anything to be able to have the small disc of ‘bread’ on my tongue and drink the wine – but all I got was a small pat on the head so no, not very exciting.  The only things that excited me were seeing ‘Jesus of Nazareth’ repeated on tele each Christmas (Robert Powell was so hot!) or seeing Julie Andrews as a nun and my consequent decision to become one.   But this was short-lived.

Robert Powell as Jesus of Nazareth
He rocked my world… Robert Powell in ‘Jesus of Nazareth’ 1977

So this Jesus week, all these years later, did seem to spring from nowhere.

OK,  I am living in a rural area where many of the locals remain strongly connected to Catholicism (one of the primary religions in France) – of course I’ll see religious symbols, they’re on almost every corner!  And maybe I’m reading too much into things, simply trying to reassure myself with these ‘messages’.  But it does make me stop for a bit and think.

VIE
in Lezignan

Gee I’m babbling now and sounding bonkers.  But when Benji came out with the whole blessing thing, it sounds strange but it made sense for me.   A couple of days before we’d had a shock with our daughter in an accident.  Lilas was ok, but it really threw me and I’d been murmuring thank-you’s ever since.  Attending a blessing sounded completely logical.

“Can I come?” I asked Benji.

Frere Francois
Frere Francois arriving at the cellar
Frere Francois before the Visigoth building
blessing the small Visigoth building at the property

Frere Francois in the barrel and ageing cellar

All the staff were present but no one said much.  We followed Frere Francois outside and then through the cellar as he gave his blessings and threw the holy water .  It was a strange moment and I didn’t understand everything that was said, but was I happy to take it all in – his gentle manner and the ambience he created, of kindness and tranquility.

It was over before I knew it and I was even sad to see him leave.

Frere Francois departing

A couple of days later I took some friends, visiting from Australia, to a vide-grenier (flea market) after Sunday lunch.  Walking back to the car we saw the door was open to the small village church.  Doors of village churches are normally always locked so we made the most of it and had a look.

Eglise Saint Paul Serge, Mailhac
Inside Eglise Saint Paul Serge, in Mailhac

For such an unassuming exterior the inside was a lovely surprise – very colourful and much bigger than I’d expected.  We had a wander and then Michelle pointed out something on the pin-up board:

quizz
the Eglise Saint-Paul-Serge QUIZZ

“It looks like a quiz for children maybe?”

Looked like it to me.  Here are some of the questions – they’ve got to be shared:

Q 11.  The Mother of Jesus was called:  A) Marie?  B) Nathalie?  C) Sylvie?

Q 12.  Jesus is:  A) A great Frenchman?  B) The Son of God made man?  C) An ordinary Italian?

Q 13.  Jesus died:  A) Crucified in Jerusalem at the age 0f 33?  B) In an accident in Rome at the age of 21?  C) In his bed in London at the age of 70?

Q 14.  Why was Jesus crucified:  A) Because he did nothing?  B) Because he did bad things?  C) Because, as Son of God, he did good around him?

QUIZZ

The following Wednesday (nearly all French children have it off from school) I had to take Lilas to collect her new French passport in a town some distance from our place, in Capestang.  As is quite common around here, the church physically dominates the town.

Capestang and its chucrh in the background
the church towering over the town of Capestang – ‘Collegiale Saint-Etienne de Capestang’

Capestang

Capestang
This church would have been much bigger in scale, but the project was left unfinished due to the Great Plague and lack of funds

It was late in the afternoon and I wanted to get back home, but we had to pass the church to get back to the car.  Lilas saw it and was very keen to visit it.  She insisted we see if it was open.  It was – another one open!?  And once inside, I was so happy we’d taken the time.

Capestang

Capestang

It was beautiful and we had it all to ourselves.  Lilas loved every minute of it and I was happy to have her around.

Capestang