The Frenchman

This smile.  I know I’ve shared this image before, but I still love this man. The twinkle in the eye, the ruddy cheeks. The man had been sitting out the front of his home, too lovely to ignore.  I normally take sneaky shots of people, I’m ashamed to say, but this time it was different, too obvious and plus he’d already seen me and was smiling.  I approached his group and asked if I could take their photo.  The women laughed, rolling their eyes at each other.  He was delighted.  I’d been so nervous asking, but his grin reassured me.  

My friends know I have a thing for older souls – our elders who have lived long and seen things.  Seen what we haven’t seen, had experiences we haven’t yet had.  They are people rich with memories yet they’re often not heard and have stories we don’t hear.  When I think about it, these older souls are not unlike another my obsession, old tractors: for me there’s a beauty in well-worn legs or wheels travelling at their slow and steady pace, their minds and motors brimming from countless miles covered on this earth.  Like this man.

The day I saw him, I’d been walking around a small French town I didn’t know, Burlats, some hours’ drive from us.  We’d just arrived, a few parents accompanying teachers and their 30 young élèves, aged 4-10 years, for my daughter’s school music trip. The kids were excited and running in all directions, happy to have arrived (ie VERY happy – please picture 30 hyper, chatty children in a large bus slowly winding its way through the Montagnes Noires – a long and wonky journey resulting in 28 small unwell stomachs emptying in unison, forcing an overwhelmed driver of a stinking bus to pull over.  The trip itself had been something to remember, a total barforama).


I’d been marvelling at the ancient monuments and the beauty of its rural setting, perched high in hills above the Agout river…


Wandering behind some kids, I spied a group of locals set up on plastic chairs in the full afternoon light.  The beret caught my attention, and I made a beeline in their direction.  I said bonjour, explained we were visiting on a school trip and, for once, asked permission to take their photo.

For a while, this man’s photo hung on the walls of our village cafe, Grand Café Occitan.  The Frenchman with no name. I’d printed it with a few others and they were for sale.  The man watched over diners but no-one took him home.  I was quite happy actually – because he’s been leaning on a wall in our house ever since, and each time I see him I smile.  It might be his cheeky smile reminds me of my dad?  My dad’s far from me, living in Australia and I miss him. What I would give to get him out here with a bunch of his mates and see them sitting on the public bench alongside the older folk of our village – chatting, watching the world go by.  Dad and his mates might even introduce a bottle or two of red for the occasion – unheard of in these parts. 

But I’m rambling.  Why am I talking about older folk and this particular photo?   Because I have something new to add to this story, my Frenchman with no name now has a name.  

We were having dinner, Benji and me with friends of ours on holiday at the Cafe Occitan.  There’s not many of us left – our table of 4 and a large, festive table of people from out of town celebrating a birthday.  I head to the loo as we’re about to go, and as I’m walking back to our table, I hear the music has upped a few notches and see the birthday party has revved up with all the guests on their feet and dancing.  A man from the group motions over to me and I plan a polite merci, non merci for an offer to dance.  A second later he’s standing before me trying to explain over the noise that someone in his group wants to meet me, would this be ok. He brings over a lady whose face is beaming who tells me she wanted to meet the person whose photos had hung on the walls of this cafe, and had found out it was me.  It’s been years since the photos came down, but she had remembered one in particular, the one of her father, sitting in his village in front of his home, with a beret on his head. 

This smiling woman wanted to tell me how happy it had made her, the surprise all those years ago, of seeing her father on the wall in a cafe so far from their home. She told me her father’s name was André.  We hugged and I melted.  I couldn’t thank this woman enough for introducing herself and sharing this.  I explained which year I’d taken his photo and why I had been in their town, and we laughed as I described my meeting with her father and his warm, jovial manner with me.  That sounds like him she said, and told me that he had passed one year after the photo was taken.  We hugged again and exchanged our numbers so I could send her all the photos I had of André. 

a happy new year

Aussie Xmas Tour
An Aussie Xmas Tour…

We’re about to greet the new year and I want to shout out a G’day from stinking hot Adelaide.

Don’t be fooled by the home-made version of our tree for this year… we’re not in gay Calamiac, we’re down here in Oz.  And on the eve of Christmas, our family’s old tree, after 40 years, decided to hang up its boots – so Lilas and I put together a ‘Xmas Tour’!  It’s a wonder what you can find in a shed full of old boxes…

And I must say it’s thanks to you, Mum, that we have a ‘tree’ this year.  Much to my objections, you put up this tower, festooned with ribbons as part of the decorations for our post-elopement-wedding party.  Did I squirm! – wondering what the Frenchies would think… But it was a hit, and thanks to you, it’s come out in full glory again.

Bonnes Fetes and Happy Days for 2014…

IMG_3856 IMG_3926 IMG_4062

picking

Ambroise emptying 'la hotte'
Ambroise emptying ‘la hotte’

Picking at last.

There’s been stops and starts… and now it’s all GO to get the grapes in.

We’re harvesting three weeks later than previous years, but it’s shaping up to be a pretty good ‘recolte’ … there’s a charged atmosphere and smiles all round.

I’ll fill you in on this harvest over a few posts, but here’s a selection of pics from today, in and out of our village.

(you may note some ‘fx’ in the images – my dear old camera is on the blink so what you see are the results of lumping around with a clunky electronic rectangle)

woke to to the noise of the harvester outside the kitchen window
woke to to the noise of the harvester outside the kitchen window
tent-picking
tent-picking
checking out the noise... a tractor cruising down the driveway
checking out the noise… a tractor cruising down the driveway

picking 1

pick cal1
here comes the sun

cal pick3

empty 2

empty 3

empty 4

cal 7
house on the prairie

pick cal 2Meanwhile, back in the village…

ca 4

chat arnaud
clearing out remains of the ‘pressoir’ (press)

ca 3

the Vigneron having a spray
the Vigneron having a spray
...and the ladies are still out checking the 'raisins'
…and the ladies are still out checking the ‘raisins’

 

“The Frenchman”

you may be thinking I have a fondness for the older French folk?  I do. Two fyi's... the bathing belle with the Aussie flag is actually French and happens to be our ex-fishmonger - and there are two VIPs in the midst...
You may be thinking I have a fondness for the older French folk? I do.
And two fyi’s… the bathing beau with the Aussie flag is actually French and happens to be our ex-fishmonger… and there are some VPo VIPs in the midst…

Ah Frenchie men. Rummaging through my mum’s cookbooks back in Adelaide this Summer, I spied this gem with a wonderful text on – The Frenchman.

The Browns, Cora, Rose  and Bob, "The Four-in-One Book of Continental Cookery: Italy, Spain, Portugal, France," Arco Publishers Limited, 1956
The Browns – Cora, Rose and Bob, “The Four-in-One Book of Continental Cookery: Italy, Spain, Portugal, France,” Arco Publishers Limited, 1956

continental cookery book text
“…sanctified seriousness, …a rubbing of hands and tummy”

1956. To quote the Browns (Cora, Rose and Bob):

                                        “The Frenchman is informal enough at his plain morning cafe au lait with a brioche or croissant, newspaper and cigaret, but

                                          he approaches both lunch and dinner with sanctified seriousness, a rubbing of hands and tummy, crackling and tucking in of napkins,        

                                          anticipatory peeping under dish covers.  At table nothing must interfere with his enjoyment,

                                          the slightest interruption is resented and no visitor would presume to butt in on this devout ritual…”  (p.277, The Four-in-One Book of Continental Cookery, 1956)

1956.  Not much has changed.

Roti de Porc au Lait (Roast Milk Pork) …tonight!

LOVED this dish tonight!  I know I’ve put this recipe up earlier this year, but had to share it again… with the “NEW”photos!

The nights are cooler, Benji is now in harvest swing and it’s time to cook up some warm, slow-cooked meals…  Bon app.

HipstamaticPhoto-533513647.333384

 

delicious 'Porc au Lait'
delicious ‘Porc au Lait’

I was on the phone to Mum and Dad last week and mentioned that I’d just cooked up some Milk Pork – ‘Porc au Lait’ – for the next day’s dinner.  It’s funny, these conversations about food are always totally out of whack with our time zones.  It was 11pm my time and 8.30am the following morning, their time.  Normally it’s me cleaning up the breakfast dishes as Dad explains with excitement what he’s got on the stove for dinner.

I’ve never served them Porc au Lait but I know they’d love it.  It ticks all our family’s favourite food boxes:  MEAT, lots of sauce, herbs, garlic and the required ‘three veg’ – and it is easy to prepare.  It’s one of those old-fashioned French dishes that is simply delicious comfort food.  My husband and mother-in-law showed me how to cook this years ago and I can’t count how many times I’ve prepared it since.  We had the poker men for dinner + a few UK visitors and it went down a treat with the new ‘Boulevard Napoleon‘ wines – white and red.

the empties:  the Boulevard Napoleon Grenache Gris white and a few reds...
the empties: the Boulevard Napoleon Grenache Gris white and a few reds…

had to show you these beautifully coloured carrots - they actually gave the milk sauce an almost mauve tint by the end
had to show you these beautifully coloured carrots – they actually gave the milk sauce an almost mauve tint by the end

After the meat has been cooking for awhile in the milk, drop the vegies and parsley in
After the meat has been cooking for awhile in the milk, drop the vegies and parsley in

amples of milk sauce...
amples of milk sauce…

...to serve with this tender juicy meat.  The butcher told me the pork roll was 'parsleyed' ('persille') - I thought he meant stuffed with parsley, but he laughed and corrected me - no, it is the lines of fat running through the piece , 'marbled' as we might say.  Even the Vigneron hadn't heard of this!
…to serve with this incredibly juicy meat. The butcher told me the pork roll was ‘parsleyed’ (‘persille’) – I thought he meant stuffed with parsley, but he laughed and corrected me – it actually refers the lines of fat running through the piece , ‘marbled’ as we might say. Even the Vigneron hadn’t heard of this term, so I was proud to bestow some francais on him.

Roti de Porc au Lait

serves 6-8

ingredients:

1.5kg roll of roasting pork – preferably of shoulder (fillet is drier and less fat, don’t want that)

1 litre full cream milk

2 large onions, sliced

6 carrots, cut into in large chunks

8 potatoes, as above

8 small turnips, as above

4-5 cloves of garlic

2 sprigs fresh thyme

bunch fresh sage (about 10-12 leaves)

2 sprigs rosemary

oil, butter

salt, pepper

method:

Fry up the onions in heavy cast iron pot with a big chunk of butter (30-40g) and a little olive oil, until golden.

Add the roll of pork and brown on each side over medium -high heat.

When the meat is almost all browned, add the garlic and salt, pepper to taste.  I find garlic burns very easily, so I add it near the end of the browning.

Pour over the milk (meat should be 3/4 covered, if not add more ) and add the herbs.

Cover with lid and let simmer for an hour.

Add the carrots and turnips and keep simmering for another hour.

Add potatoes and keep simmering until they are tender.

Serve with lashings of dijon mustard on the side and a big white or red wine!

N.B.  If this is prepared the night before eating, I don’t add any of the vegetables until the next day.

And.  I cook this for a few hours, the longer the better.  I like it when the meat falls apart.  A lot of recipes cook it for less though, and you keep the form of the pork roll and then slice it.  As the French would say, ‘as you want’…