Les Vendanges – La Rentree

Lilas in the vines
Checking the grapes, the night before school goes back
lilas with a bunch
a bunch ready for the picking

It only seems like yesterday that Lilas broke up from school and started the Summer holidays at the beginning of July.

And then before I knew it, we’d been on the Naked tour, my family had come and gone, the Olympics and Paralympics ended with a bang, the Fetes de Villages had packed up for the year, our Summer friends had all been and gone…

Summer 2012
Summer 2012

…and suddenly the grapes got ripe for the picking! (‘Les Vendanges’):

VENDANGES EN LANGUEDOC, Societe des Cartes Postales APA-POUX, ALBI - 'AS DE COUER'
‘Vendanges en Languedoc’ (AS DE COEUR)

– and the new school year (‘La Rentree’) 2012-2013 started.

la classe
la classe

Come September, a different kind of ambience sets in around here.  The tourists (or most of them!) have left en masse, the weather softens and jumpers come out for nights on the terrace, the markets no longer have ‘bouchons’ (traffic jams):

Carcassonne market
Carcassonne market, August

…the local pools have shut their gates:

our pool
our pool
(thanks Vincent)

– and tanned bodies (just not ours) post ‘les vacances’:

skin!
Lola and Lilas

…get ready for some WORK!

following a tractor during the harvest
You often get stuck behind these people during the harvest!  Time to slow down and have some respect…
Les Vendanges a La Liviniere
‘Les Vendanges’ in La Liviniere

Les Vendanges is one of the most important events on our local calendar (most people in our village own or have some family connection/ investment in grape vines) – and each year, come September, there is the most wonderful buzz in the air.  The village hums with expectation and excitement over the ‘recolte’ (harvest) – it’s time to pick the ‘fruits’ of a long year’s labour.

Lilas and a bunch
check it out

And harvest always coincides with the kiddies going back to school after two months’ of holidays.  I still can’t quite get my head around this school ‘year’ here.  In Australia our school ‘year’ begins around the beginning of the calendar year, in February – after Xmas and at the end of Summer.  Here, each school year ends in what I would call the middle of the year, July, and then recommences in September.  And because of this schoolbooks, labels etc name the school ‘year’ as ‘2000-2001’ etc.  This year for example, is ‘2012-2013’.  I know I’m rambling.  Maybe it’s because I’m from ‘down there’ that I’m confused.

picking an apple for school
Picking an apple for tomorrow’s ‘gouter’ (afternoon snack) on the first day back at school

Anyway, back to the grapes.  The reds are just getting under way, but Benji has been picking for a couple weeks’ now as the whites here ripened earlier.  As for how this year’s harvest will be?  It’s looking good so far – relief!  The weather has been almost perfect for the grapes these last few weeks – a lot of sun and no rain – and so it all needs to come in NOW!

It will be the biggest week yet – 4am starts, working through until 6pm, 7/7.   Another couple of weeks of this, then it’s finished for the pickers and machine harvesters in the vines, but full-steam ahead in the wine cellar – managing the tanks and their juice.  Benji will maintain this crazy routine for a few more weeks yet – until the end of October.  And then it will be time to think about HIS holiday!…

lunch at my in-laws’

mmmn, lunch
lunch

Mmn, ca vous donne envie?

This is the un-cooked version.  I just couldn’t resist.  It’s a dish called ‘Andouillette‘.

I’ve got to say that this is one of the only dishes I can’t get myself to enjoy.  Don’t get me wrong, I have been raised well and have of course done the right thing and tried it.  I have tried it many times in fact – each time trying to savour the flavour as much as those around me (not much pressure here – it’s a Frenchie family favourite).  But I’m sorry, everytime I do, I get a certain ‘je ne sais quoi’ flavour.  Actually no, I’m lying.  I know what I taste – and it’s a taste I wouldn’t normally associate with fine cuisine.   Getting me?  Sorry, but it does.  You should smell the fumes when these babies are smoking in the pan.  I thought tripe in Mum and Dad’s pressure cooker was bad.

The first time I ate Andouillette the je-ne-sais-quoi flavour lingered in my mouth well into the following morning (I had brushed my teeth three times).  I was horrified and complained to Benji about the disturbingly bad taste.  “Well, it is half made of shit,” was his answer.

Am I making your mouth water by now?  Look it up and see what’s in it.  It’s a delicacy that, in it’s ‘purest’ (and by this I mean ‘smellier’ version) form, you don’t find often, if ever, outside of France.   Strange.

As I don’t tend to serve this at home, my mother-in-law likes to get some in preparation for her boy’s arrival.  They all laugh at me as they’re tucking into it with dollops of mustard, wondering how on earth I can’t adore this dish.  I can only sit there and make cheap comments on the dish’s obvious aesthetic merits and delightfully heady aromas.  “My poor son!” my mother-in-law consoles… “At least here at your mother’s you can enjoy Andouillette!”

mmmn, andouillette
mmmn, Andouillette

Hungry?

As seen near Saintes… (signs!)

as seen near Saintes...
We were on our way to a party in the Charente last Saturday and followed this car on a roundabout…

Benji and I had a party to go to near his parents’ place in the Charente last weekend.  We found ourselves following this guy, somewhere near Saintes…

HOMME 55

CHERCHE A

RENCONTRE

FEMME 48 AN ET

AIMENT NATURE

MARCHE. ANIMEAUX

TEL….

He’s saying:

Man 55

Looking to

Meet woman 48 years plus

Loves Nature

Walking. Animals

Ingenious.  I hope he’s found his woman.

Speaking of signs, here’s one I recently spotted on someone’s front door :

dog con
You should ask a French person how to say this one

I think their dog’s name is Polo… and he jumps, and he’s a…

And I love this one too, seen on the back of an old guy’s truck:

Buvez du Vin!
Beziers Propaganda Association for Wine sticker

DRINK!!!!!

…and I’ve just thought,

L’AMOUR + LES CHIENS + LE VIN = LA FRANCE!?!   Ooh la la.

romance frenchie style
romance, Frenchie style

 

 

some sights #4 – from yesterday (don’t forget the Jubilee!)

gate in Felines
an early morning view
Le Moulin a Felines
Le Moulin outside Felines
vide grenier in the rain
a Minervois vide grenier (village garage sale) in the rain…
vide grenier in the rain 2
Spot the Pierrot (remember them?!?)
inside a shed at the vg
hidden treasures sheltered from the rain in Philippe’s shed
books at the v-g
love the ‘Killdozer’ – and J.T doing the headband
a morning chat
a morning chat with the neighbour…
umbrella lady and her house
…who lives across the road
text books
you can tell we’re in a wine region
HRH and Phillip
love Lizzie (as seen on TV)
Alice's Jubilee Cake
Bravo Alice!
Gruissan blanc
the white was flowing for the ladies
Coronation bowl
Pam’s Coronation bowl…
Pam's treasure cupboard
…and her amazing treasure cupboard (thanks P!)

Tasting the juice on Boulevard Napoleon

tasting at BN
the juice!

We joined in on Benji and Trevor‘s tasting yesterday morning at the cellar on Boulevard Napoleon.

tasting BN
Ben and Trev hard at work

These 2011 wines are ageing in both barrel and tank – and at 10am were tasting incredibly delicious.  To the point where I realised I should have had more breakfast!   Still haven’t learned the spit method, more like the ‘drink and tip’ – but not enough tips.

And as Jen warned, the kids get going early in these parts too.

tasting

lilas and her dad