The Frenchman

This smile.  I know I’ve shared this image before, but I still love this man. The twinkle in the eye, the ruddy cheeks. The man had been sitting out the front of his home, too lovely to ignore.  I normally take sneaky shots of people, I’m ashamed to say, but this time it was different, too obvious and plus he’d already seen me and was smiling.  I approached his group and asked if I could take their photo.  The women laughed, rolling their eyes at each other.  He was delighted.  I’d been so nervous asking, but his grin reassured me.  

My friends know I have a thing for older souls – our elders who have lived long and seen things.  Seen what we haven’t seen, had experiences we haven’t yet had.  They are people rich with memories yet they’re often not heard and have stories we don’t hear.  When I think about it, these older souls are not unlike another my obsession, old tractors: for me there’s a beauty in well-worn legs or wheels travelling at their slow and steady pace, their minds and motors brimming from countless miles covered on this earth.  Like this man.

The day I saw him, I’d been walking around a small French town I didn’t know, Burlats, some hours’ drive from us.  We’d just arrived, a few parents accompanying teachers and their 30 young élèves, aged 4-10 years, for my daughter’s school music trip. The kids were excited and running in all directions, happy to have arrived (ie VERY happy – please picture 30 hyper, chatty children in a large bus slowly winding its way through the Montagnes Noires – a long and wonky journey resulting in 28 small unwell stomachs emptying in unison, forcing an overwhelmed driver of a stinking bus to pull over.  The trip itself had been something to remember, a total barforama).


I’d been marvelling at the ancient monuments and the beauty of its rural setting, perched high in hills above the Agout river…


Wandering behind some kids, I spied a group of locals set up on plastic chairs in the full afternoon light.  The beret caught my attention, and I made a beeline in their direction.  I said bonjour, explained we were visiting on a school trip and, for once, asked permission to take their photo.

For a while, this man’s photo hung on the walls of our village cafe, Grand Café Occitan.  The Frenchman with no name. I’d printed it with a few others and they were for sale.  The man watched over diners but no-one took him home.  I was quite happy actually – because he’s been leaning on a wall in our house ever since, and each time I see him I smile.  It might be his cheeky smile reminds me of my dad?  My dad’s far from me, living in Australia and I miss him. What I would give to get him out here with a bunch of his mates and see them sitting on the public bench alongside the older folk of our village – chatting, watching the world go by.  Dad and his mates might even introduce a bottle or two of red for the occasion – unheard of in these parts. 

But I’m rambling.  Why am I talking about older folk and this particular photo?   Because I have something new to add to this story, my Frenchman with no name now has a name.  

We were having dinner, Benji and me with friends of ours on holiday at the Cafe Occitan.  There’s not many of us left – our table of 4 and a large, festive table of people from out of town celebrating a birthday.  I head to the loo as we’re about to go, and as I’m walking back to our table, I hear the music has upped a few notches and see the birthday party has revved up with all the guests on their feet and dancing.  A man from the group motions over to me and I plan a polite merci, non merci for an offer to dance.  A second later he’s standing before me trying to explain over the noise that someone in his group wants to meet me, would this be ok. He brings over a lady whose face is beaming who tells me she wanted to meet the person whose photos had hung on the walls of this cafe, and had found out it was me.  It’s been years since the photos came down, but she had remembered one in particular, the one of her father, sitting in his village in front of his home, with a beret on his head. 

This smiling woman wanted to tell me how happy it had made her, the surprise all those years ago, of seeing her father on the wall in a cafe so far from their home. She told me her father’s name was André.  We hugged and I melted.  I couldn’t thank this woman enough for introducing herself and sharing this.  I explained which year I’d taken his photo and why I had been in their town, and we laughed as I described my meeting with her father and his warm, jovial manner with me.  That sounds like him she said, and told me that he had passed one year after the photo was taken.  We hugged again and exchanged our numbers so I could send her all the photos I had of André. 

picking

Ambroise emptying 'la hotte'
Ambroise emptying ‘la hotte’

Picking at last.

There’s been stops and starts… and now it’s all GO to get the grapes in.

We’re harvesting three weeks later than previous years, but it’s shaping up to be a pretty good ‘recolte’ … there’s a charged atmosphere and smiles all round.

I’ll fill you in on this harvest over a few posts, but here’s a selection of pics from today, in and out of our village.

(you may note some ‘fx’ in the images – my dear old camera is on the blink so what you see are the results of lumping around with a clunky electronic rectangle)

woke to to the noise of the harvester outside the kitchen window
woke to to the noise of the harvester outside the kitchen window
tent-picking
tent-picking
checking out the noise... a tractor cruising down the driveway
checking out the noise… a tractor cruising down the driveway

picking 1

pick cal1
here comes the sun

cal pick3

empty 2

empty 3

empty 4

cal 7
house on the prairie

pick cal 2Meanwhile, back in the village…

ca 4

chat arnaud
clearing out remains of the ‘pressoir’ (press)

ca 3

the Vigneron having a spray
the Vigneron having a spray
...and the ladies are still out checking the 'raisins'
…and the ladies are still out checking the ‘raisins’

 

Here little piggy

following in the footsteps
on the trail

When I’m on a roll and doing the right thing by my back (my G.P. freaked when I said I was discovering the merits of beer and wine over prescription pills to ease chronic pain), I get out and walk.

Up and down and around the numerous ‘chemins‘(paths) of our local village after dropping Lilas off at school – or if I’m at home, I lock the door behind me and head out for a wander around ye olde hamlet.  There’s nothing better for head-clearing than getting out and enjoying the sights and smells and sounds from the viewpoint of your feet (I haven’t yet embraced the bike-thing, despite obvious inspiration from the many folk here in Frogsville).

And now more than ever – with the hunting season is officially over, I can walk panic-free.

It sounds crazy but believe me, there’s this dodgy period of the year, from September to the end of February, when delightful shots ring in the air and I freeze and cower behind some vines.  The hunters are out.  Crouching like a ninny, you wonder if your bulk in a huge brown puffa jacket ressembles more wild sanglier (boar) than human.  Especially when you’re not much taller than a wild boar – and on all fours (ooh la la, I won’t start).  Here little piggy.

shells
Lilas likes collecting up the rubbish they leave behind. On you girl!

I’m not joking, accidents happen all over France each year during hunting season.  You can find any number of stats on the net, one of which claims 57 hunting-related deaths in the 2012/2013 season (up from 42 in the 2011/2012 year).  But the stats, depending who is reporting them, vary: the Office National de la Chasse et de la Faune Sauvage cites for 2011/2012, 131 hunting-related accidents of which only 18 were mortal, for eg.  And don’t forget the 9% concerning ‘non-hunters’…

hunting plaque

It’s a topic charged with anger on both sides of the fence.  I wonder which side this author is hanging on…

Oohla, Bernard has a petit hunting zizi surprise in his pocket
Ooh laa, Bernard’s petit hunting zizi surprise has popped out of its pocket – image courtesy of La Buvette des Alpages
…(AND NO, Bill! – that is not me that circled the goods)

Yes I’m confused, and wary of the propaganda – but when you’re out there enjoying the cacophany of shots whilst stepping over colourful empty shell cases, I wonder what my odds are.  I should maybe don a red beanie and have a plastic red rose held high, a la the travel guides shepherding their groups around the grand squares of Europe.

a tranquil walking path
a tranquil walking path, minus the hunting crowd

On the less extreme end, some groups simply argue for a ban on Sundays (most accidents occur on weekends)…  This leads me to wonder why Wednesday (with Saturday and Sunday) is also nominated as an’open’ hunting day of the week  – when it is, all-over France, the mid-week day-off for children from school?  Can’t say I’m itching to take Lilas out for a walk when you can see the camouflage khakis and gun cocked on a guy strolling not that far from the kitchen door.

But hey, on the whole I have no problems with hunting if regulations are respected.  It’s incredibly popular here in the Minervois and you see a big proportion of the villagers getting involved.  It’s almost like a religion.  And these guys are outside, enjoying the elements (and the odd bottle of red) and providing some of us meat-eaters with food on the table.  Probably better than frozen nuggets, pot and a few hours of Playstation in a dark living room .

dawgs in the back
dawgs in the back…  (I’d been wondering where I’d put this pic)

So onto those walks.  Like I said,  the season has offically ‘closed’ and the hunters are at rest for the next few months at least.  The piggies et al can relax – and me too.

hamlet 8

hamlet 6

hamlet 3

4L hamlet

calam5

hamlet 2

black pusscalam13

hameau

mousse

calam1

hamlet9

hamlet 10

first blossom

the first blossom seen in our village this year
the first blossom seen in our village this year

It’s girly wirly fleur time on the blog.  We were out on our morning walk and in the distance I spied the first blossom for the year…

our morning walk - blossom in the distance
our morning walk – blossom in the distance

Quelle belle surprise.  It’s cold and about to snow again, friends left right and centre are ‘aol’ with colds and flu, but the sight of that beautiful pink…  I go crazy in my head with excitement when I see the first trees in flower – and this was my first for 2013.

lilas and blossom
…Took Lilas out later for a look.
Carefully pruned vines in background.

blossom 6

lilas blossom 3

I know it’s only early Feb, but it gets me thinking of all the flowers to come – and Ding! goes my head with visions of colour and splendour from last year’s pickings.

So hell yeah, let’s have a cheesy insert to follow.

A ‘Collage de Fleurs’!…

a cheesy flower collage (from last year's pickings)
…a cheesy flower collage (from last year’s pickings)

this morning

Brrrr, a chilly morning, below freezing, but beautiful here in the Minervois.  I went out to take some photos in my pyjamas and my hands were frozen in 5 minutes.

out the front looking over the vineyards
out the front looking over the vineyards

cal this am3

neighbours'

pink over the vines at the back
pink over the vines at the back

cal this am5

the neighbours through the kitchen window
the neighbours through the kitchen window

The views from the car on the way to school were spectacular…

the drive to school...
the drive to school…

the Pyrenees
the Pyrenees in the background

on the route to school, coming into the village
on the route to school, coming into the village

La Liviniere
La Liviniere